Hi, my name is Mara. I am Italian, live in the UK, and am a writer for Eco-Stylist. When I moved to the UK in 2014, I worked in some of London’s most iconic retail stores. I was constantly surrounded by rails, shelves and tables stacked with gorgeous printed dresses, perfectly folded t-shirts and denim jeans.
Initially, I was proud to work for well-known companies and worked hard to be a retail manager. During my seven years of experience, I clearly remember the day I realized there was much more behind fast fashion, the production process and those stretch jeans.
At the time, I worked for a renowned company known for its denim, located in the men’s denim department at Selfridges, where customers could choose from brands such as Rag&Bone, Levi Strauss & Co., Calvin Klein, and Lee, among others. It was Black Friday, and the excitement was high. Customers were everywhere, and we reached our target by lunchtime.
When I saw the figures at the end of the day, I couldn’t help but wonder: what does it really take to get a single pair of jeans onto one of these tables? What’s the true cost, not just in dollars, but to the planet and the people who make them? What’s the environmental impact of denim?
My concerns about conventional denim led me down a research path, and what I discovered changed how I view denim and the fashion industry forever. I am here today to share what I have learnt about denim and how simple it is to make the right choice.
Is denim sustainable? Here’s the truth on the environmental impact of jeans production
In the fashion industry, denim has a long story. It started in the 19th century, and thanks to its durable fabric, it was the ideal choice for American miners. Thanks to its durability, over the centuries, it soon expanded beyond workwear and became a symbol of rebellion, rock and roll music, and much more.
Nowadays, denim garments are a wardrobe staple, and the denim fabric is used for a wide range of garments including jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, jumpsuits and accessories. The demand for textiles, including denim, is high. Through my personal experience, understanding the reality behind denim industries, how they work, the overall manufacturing process, and its environmental impact, will help you make conscious choices in the future.
What are the environmental and social costs associated with the denim manufacturing process? In brief, the impact on the environment of the denim industry is considered one of the most damaging in the entire fashion industry, as it relies heavily on water, chemicals, and energy.
Typically, the production of blue denim involves four main stages: cutting, sewing, laundering, and finishing. The laundry stage is the most energy and water-intensive part of all.
According to UNEP, producing one pair of jeans requires around 3,781 litres of water—enough to sustain one person’s drinking needs for years—from the production of the cotton to the delivery of the final product to the store. Most of this water is used in cotton cultivation and during the dyeing and finishing processes, often in regions already suffering from water scarcity.
Additionally, the denim industry consumes 50,000 tons of synthetic indigo dye and 84,000 tons of sodium hydrosulfite annually. What does it mean? These chemicals are widely used in the denim industry and are hazardous to both textile workers and the environment.
On average, denim production releases between 40 and 65 litres of effluent per kilogram as colored wastewater polluting rivers and groundwater and turning waterways blue, thereby decimating local ecosystems. The use of toxic additives in dyeing is highly alkaline and corrosive, which makes wastewater almost impossible to treat.
Furthermore, the average pair of jeans emits between 10 and 30 kilograms of CO2. The carbon footprint of the textile industry, including denim as a major contributor, is approximately 1.2 billion tonnes of CO₂ per year, surpassing that of international aviation and shipping.
The energy-intensive production and consumption of denim is staggering. To these numbers, we must add global transportation and the connection to microplastic water pollution. The toxic chemicals and mechanical processes used to finish denim might affect the amount of microplastics released into water and microfibers released from the denim garment during domestic washing.
Also, during my experience in retail, I once asked my area manager what happened to the unsold jeans we sent back to the warehouse at the end of every season. He said not to worry about it too much, some were sent for textile recycling, some were repurposed into new garments, and some were donated.
Unfortunately, he never mentioned that a billion pairs of jeans end up in landfills because it is less expensive for retailers to dispose of unsold stock than invest in recycling or repurposing.
The last thing I want to mention is related to social issues. Firstly, many factories in countries with weak labour laws expose workers to unsafe conditions, low wages, and excessive working hours. Chemical exposure poses a significant health risk to those working on the production line. Some years ago, a team of researchers and doctors discovered a link between the manufacture of jeans and silicosis, one of the worst respiratory tract diseases.
When I buy a new garment, I support brands that prioritize the well-being of their workers, ensure a safe work environment, and offer fair wages. Choosing ethically manufactured clothing is more important than ever, if you want to learn what it means and how to identify brands, read our guide to ethically made clothing.
As we can see, traditional denim production’s environmental and social consequences are simply too great to ignore. The massive use of non-renewable resources and harmful chemicals highlights the importance of transitioning toward sustainable production and consumption to mitigate pollution, improve workers’ conditions, foster eco-conscious brands and adopt more responsible consumption habits.
Sustainability for denim is possible. Here’s what to look for to reduce the environmental impact of our blue jeans
The per capita consumption of denim varies around the world, and the global denim market is estimated to be worth $95 billion by 2030. While it is a well-known fact that the manufacture of denim isn’t sustainable and has a significant impact on the planet and people, the production of denim hasn’t changed yet. Why?
The problems that the denim industry now faces in finding more sustainable ways to produce denim are massive. The scope of the conventional denim process is to offer cheap garments that are easier to scale. Synthetic dyes and fast, chemical-heavy processes keep costs low and output high, allowing brands to meet massive global demand quickly.
Our concerns are directly responsible for the continuous research to explore alternative methods to reduce the environmental impact caused by the industry. Sustainability is a slow and complex process that involves challenges in implementing eco-responsible solutions that account for increased environmental sustainability. However, if we increase our demand for sustainable denim and opt for friendly finishing methods for denim garments, we will be closer to finding a solution.
To learn more about sustainable jean production check out my part 2 guide: the good. There you’ll discover the five keys to producing sustainable denim and what to look for when you buy a new pair.
Sustainability in denim is crucial for achieving minimal environmental impact and protecting people. Certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the Fair Wear Foundation ensure that environmental and social criteria are met.
For an easy search and to find good brands, use our Brand Guide and filter by denim brands.
Sustainable denim brands that reduce CO2 emissions, water consumption, and take care of the planet and people
Eco-Stylist is reader-supported. If you make a purchase using our links, we may earn a commission. We only feature fashion brands that pass our sustainable brand criteria. Learn more here.
Sustainable denim production is indeed possible, and some brands are doing it right.
These brands aim to change every step of the traditional process to produce jeans that are better for the planet and fairer for workers. They lead the way in ethical and sustainable fashion, demonstrating that style and sustainability can go hand in hand.
Here are two brands that I love and are certified by Eco-Stylist for their sustainable approach.
1) Outerknown – “Sustainability is everything”
The brand aims to transform the way clothes are designed and produced. It strives to use 100% circular materials. It designs products that are easier to disassemble, recycle, and repair while aiming for a circular economy and leading innovation by 2030. If that is not enough, Outerknown works with bluesign supply chain partners and partnered with the Fair Labour Association.
The solutions for increased environmental sustainability? 95% of the fibers used in the production are sustainable, and denim jeans are made with eco-friendly, organic, and recycled materials. Additionally, Outerknown makes an effort to reduce waste throughout the manufacturing process, offering recyclable packaging.
What about workers? The brand was the first to pursue Fair Labour Association accreditation before selling its products. Also, through Fair Trade Premium, workers can choose from various programs, including extended healthcare insurance, housing support, scholarships for their children, and more.
What do I like about Outerknown? It helps me keep clothing out of the landfill by offering a program which allows me to sell and buy Outerknown pre-loved items. When I buy a new garment, I have a lifetime warranty on my jeans. It will repair, replace, or recycle each pair I return. In particular, I love the 100% recycled denim line.
Home Country: USA
My selected piece: The Beachcomber Relaxed Jean
2) Nudie Jeans – “Create tomorrow’s vintage”
The brand is committed to quality and longevity more than any other brand. They design denim products that last a lifetime, made with 100% organic cotton.
Why is Nudie Jeans environmentally friendly? It is one of the few companies on our Eco-Stylist brand guide that measures and discloses its CO2 emissions and water usage. Additionally, it avoids hazardous chemicals in accordance with the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substance List. Then, it uses various water-saving techniques, including ozone washes, laser technology, sandpaper drums, and synthetic stones. In addition to these, in areas that are geographically at high risk of water scarcity, Nudie Jeans suppliers have treatment plants that utilise reverse osmosis to create a closed-loop water system.
What about workers? Its supply chain is certified by the Fair Wear Foundation, Fairtrade International and GOTS, among others. It works on worker well-being programs, including sanitation and access to water in the workplace, accessibility to education and more. It puts efforts into tracing most of its supply chain and ensures workers are paid living wages.
What do I like about it? Nudie Jeans accepts my old pair of jeans while offering a 20% discount on a new pair. It washes, reconditions, repairs, and sells them on its reuse page. Additionally, my denim comes with a lifetime guarantee and includes a free repair service that can be used as many times as needed. I love the commitment to longevity!
Home Country: Sweden
My selected piece: Lofty Lo Indigo Illusion
My final thoughts on the sustainability of jeans
After my experience in retail, I had a lot of environmental concerns, and I was sure jeans were bad for the environment. So, I didn’t buy any for a while and stayed far away from fast fashion.
Thanks to the collaboration with Eco-Stylist and my curiosity, I realized that a portion of the jeans market seeks to offer more environmentally friendly denim, aiming to reduce the amount of water and energy used in the production. Now, I know which brands are the right choice for me because they align with my values, share my concerns, and aim to make fashion a better industry for the planet, workers, and people.
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Mara is an Italian writer and communicator specializing in sustainability, multilingual communications, and localization. She loves literature, art, and traveling. She dreams of living on a sailing boat to explore the Mediterranean.
